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W> R. WILLIAMS 

NEW INSTRUCTION BOOK, 

FULL. AND CC TE INSTRUCTIONS 

, THE 

PERFECTK I OF DRESS CUTTING. 

.'.; 3, 1889.) 

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Perfection Tailor Body ! rfection Tailor Sleeve 



W. R. WILLIAMS, 

PROPRIETOR AND MANUFACTURER, 
LAWRENCE, KANSAS. 



W. R. WILLIAMS' 



^ 






GIVING 



GENERAL AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS 

FOR USING THE 

Perfection Tailor System of Dress Cutting, 

CONSISTING OF 

Perfection Tailor Body System, Perfection 

Tailor Sleeve Rule and Perfection 

Tailor Skirt Rule. 



We feel quite proud, as well as very thankful, for the great 
popularity of the Perfection Tailor System of Dress Cutting, and 
it is undoubtedly due to the fact that, while it is exceedingly 
simple at the same time it is very complete and accurate, cutting 
the entire garment by actual measurement; and we verily believe 
that with a few hours of oral instruction, and a careful study and 
understanding of this book, any lady of ordinary intelligence can 
become a practical dress cutter in a very short time. But we 
would recommend the learner first to become familiar with the 
general appearance of the different parts that constitute the 
"Complete System," and we will endeavor, before proceeding 
further, to give you some information concerning them. 

The Perfection Tailor System then consists of the Body System, 
Sleeve Rule, and Skirt Rule. To the Body System belongs the 
Front, Back, Dart rule, and Side form. 

Those large letters that you will notice placed on the Front and 
Back of the Body system refer to the different scales which we 
use; for instance: we use the scales of A and B to draft the neck, 
the scales of B and C to draft the short shoulder (or D for the long 
shoulder), or between C and D for medium shoulder; the scales of 
C, E and F to draft the arm's eye, and so on through all the 
different scales. With the above information regarding the scales, 
etc., we may now proceed to draft a pattern for a tight-fitting 
basque with under-arm dart, and please remember if you learn this 






2 INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 

thoroughly you can cut any style of basque, as the changes to be 
made in cutting the different styles are only in the general out- 
lines; likewise remember that first of all, and really one of the 
most important things to be considered in cutting anything, is to 
get a perfect fit, for unless a garment fits well, no matter how nice 
or costly the material, it will never prove satisfactory to the 
wearer, and it will certainly be a source of annoyance as well 
as a poor recommendation to the unfortunate dressmaker who did 
the work. However, any change you may wish to make can be 
easily and readily made by observing the instructions which we 
purpose giving you in this book. 

How to Measure Correctly. 

Now, before beginning to mark off any kind of pattern, the first 
thing to do is to learn to take the different measures, and to do 
this accurately requires considerable practice. You should, there- 
fore, be very careful to take the several measures just as instructed, 
for it makes a great difference in the fit and set of a garment 
whether the measures have been taken correctly or not, as we 
have often seen a difference of from one to three inches made in 
taking a lady's bust measure, and this kind of work never will do 
when cutting by measure with our System, for it cuts right to the 
dot every time; and the fact is, that if a person is going to make 
such grevious errors as we describe they may as well cut by guess. 

Then in beginning the work of taking measures great care 
should be taken not to take them too tight or too loose, or too 
long or too short, but in every particular just right, according to 
the instructions given and in the following manner and order. 



See Diagram of Measurements. 

First take the bust measure (which, by the way, is one of the 
most important of measures), and it should be taken over the 
fullest part of the bust and drawn to about the center of the 
shoulder blades in the back, as shown in the following diagram, 
(also on the Front of the body system) and I find it best to stand at 
a person's back while taking this measure, for you can get at the 
location of the tape so much better. 

The next measure to be taken is the waist, which should always 
be taken tight, and as the correctness of the taper depends upon 
these two measures, it is very important that they be taken just as 
above described. Next get the exact length of the waist from a 
point directly under the arm down to the point of the hip or bottom 
of the natural waist; and if you are cutting for a stout figure I 
would advise that you take a front measure also, as stout people 
are nearly always a little shorter in front than slender or medium 




INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 




Examine the above Diagram of Measurement, 
persons. However, if you should fail for any cause to have taken 
this measure, a very proper and comparatively safe "way, when 
cutting for this class of forms, is to make the waist about one-half 
inch shorter in front than under the arm. For example: If a 
person measures 8 inches under the arm mark in the 1% perforation 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



in front. This you will find nearly always correct, unless it be for 
very stout, stooping forms, when you had better take this measure, 
as it is by far the safest and surest plan. This front measure is 
taken by placing the tape at a point at the neck or throat just as 
high as you wish the dress to be when finished, then measure down 
to a point at the waist just as long as you think the garment can 
be worn without wrinkling. Note the perforation that the measure 
reaches, so that you will know just where to mark when drafting. 
Now if these measures have all been taken correctly we are ready 
to begin work, the result of which should, in every case, be a 
perfect fit. 
Instructions on Cutting the Front of Plain Basque. 

Before" beginning to mark out the front of a basque, we must 
have those four measures (or five if for a stout figure), namely: 
Bust measure, waist measure, length of waist (or side seam), and 
length of back. Now after this is done, place the Front of the 
Body System- on the paper or goods. If you are drafting on the 
lining, place it on the outside edge without folding a lap, but if 
the goods proper, f :>ld a lap or hem first, and for that matter you 
can fold a lap or hem on the lining if you choose; and where the 
outside material is light perhaps that is the better way, as it gives 
greater thickness of goods, and in many instances this is desirable. 
The perforations in the Front part of the System must be just even 
with the inner edge of the goods. Now begin to dot by marking 
with your pencil or crayon through the perforations representing 
the bust measure (we'll suppose it to be 34 > in the scales of A and 
B to form the neck, then through the perforations in the scale of 
C for the short shoulder, or in D for long shoulder; in fact mark 
34 in all the scales until you come to the scale of F, when you 
should mark 36 instead, as by so doing you allow % of an inch for 
the width of the under- arm dart at the arm's eye. If you wish the 
under-arm dart wider at this point, you can mark in 38 instead of 
36, and that will make this dart just 13^ inches wide, which, in 
cutting for stout figures, I think usually improves the set of the 
garment, and in fact with some figures that are not overly stout, I 
find it a very good idea or plan to allow only % of an inch, but 
take up, in the under-arm dart at the top, 1 inch, as it seems to 
give a smoother and neater fit across the bust; and for this purpose 
we often take out a little V or wedge-shaped piece in the lining, as 
seen on the new Front, at the arm's eye in the scale of E; then 
stretch the outside over the lining and you will find it quite an 
improvement. It gives a neat, smooth appearance to the arm's 
eye and shoulder. It is likewise well to stretch the lining of front 
shoulder thoroughly. Now follow under 36 (not 34) until you come 
to the junction of the line representing the length of waist (we'll 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



5 



suppose it to be 8) and the 36 line, and mark through the perfora- 
tion at this point, which gives the exact length of waist. Now 
pass over to the front side of System and mark through the 
perforation 8, in the scale of H; or if you are cutting for a stout 
figure (and haven't taken a front measure) mark in 1%, for as we 
have already said, nearly all stout persons are about % an inch 
shorter in front than under the arm proportionately, and for all such 
persons and ladies having a very large taper and inclined to be 
somewhat corpulent, we find it a good plan to sometimes cut what is 
called the "liound Bust;" next mark the dividing space between 



U 




Diagram No. 1. 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



the front and back dart (scale of I) on length 8 or 1%, then the 
points of the darts usually in the middle row of perforations, in 
scale marked "Medium Dressing;" but for long waisted persons you 
had better mark in scale marked "High Dressing,"' and for very 
short waisted in "Low Dressing," but in regard to the position of 
the points of darts, you must be governed entirely by the form 
you are cutting for. If for medium form mark in the center, 
if slender mark in the perforation marked "Small Taper;" but if 
for stout form mark in the perforation marked "Large Taper." 
On our Old System we had a dart scale representing bust measure 
figures, but this we have done -away with and have adopted the 
plan above described, which we find does the work of changing 
the angle of the darts perfectly, and we are confident it will give 
much better satisfaction as the darts are thrown forward as 
well as backward, giving just such an angle as may be required 
when cutting for different persons. 

Width of Darts. 

It is very important that you get the exact width of the darts 
according to the taper card, which you will notice is printed on the 
Front of the System. If the bust measure is 34, and the waist 24, 
the taper (or difference) is 10 inches; then according to the taper 
card, in this instance, the front dart must be made \y 2 inches 
wide, the back dart 2 inches wide and the under-arm dart 1% 
inches wide. Now after marking through the perforations repre- 
senting the width of front and back darts we are ready to draw 
the outlines (leaving the marking of the under-arm dart until after 
we have drawn all the other lines, which process is very simple,) 
which is done by ruling from dot to dot with the Front of the System, 
using that part representing the neck to draft the neck, the 
shoulder to draft the shoulder, the arm's eye to draft the arm's 
eye, and so on until you have drawn them all as shown in the 
preceding diagram. 

How to Draft the Under Arm Dart. 

Now in laying off the under arm dart first get the center on the 
waist line between the side seam and back dart (or a half inch 
nearer the side seam from the center is some times better), then 
from that dot measure % of an inch each way, or more if necessary, 
and run the lines up to about the center of the arm's eye, always 
being careful to curve them out a little (notice diagram), as when 
curved thus they add much to the set of the garment. 

To Draft the Lower Part of Basque. 

To draft the lower part of a basque, first measure 8 inches down 
from the figure 8 on the waist line, at the right hand corner in a 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 7 

straight line, then turn the Dart Rule and measure 3 inches to the 
right for spring, which will give the proper amount of spring for 
a medium form; but for a stout figure you will n^ed to give about 
33^ inches (however, this will vary somewhat according to the size 
of the hips), and for slender forms 2% inches spring is sufficient. 
(See diagram ^s o.l.) Now draw the outside line down to the desired 
length, then the line at bottom of basque, then mark off the lower 
part of the darts, using the Dart Rule with the figure 11 on the 
waist line for front and back dart, but place the word "Medium" 
(found on the Dart Rule) on the waist line when drafting the 
under-arm dart. The darts should be drafted straight down, 
making the lines % inch apart at the bottom. 




The above diagram shows how you can draft the under-arm 
dart so as to give much more spring, which is particularly desirable 
when cutting for corpulent persons. To draft this style of dart, 
first mark off the front part as far as this dart, then give the lower 
part the desired spring by curving to the right, then draft the side 
piece between under-arm dart and side seam separate from the 
main part of front, giving it any amount of spring desired by 
curving to the left as shown in above diagram. 

For Cutting Polonaise, Wrappers, Etc. 

To draft a polonaise, wrapper, or princess dress, just extend the 
lines down to any desired length with the Skirt Rule, then turn 
the Rule crosswise and you will find the width of the different 



8 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



gores marked on the straight edge of it. Common width of front 
gore at bottom, 22 inches; but you can change this according to 
the prevailing style, taste of the dressmaker or customer. 

Instructions on Cutting Round Bust. 




This is easily done by laying the System in about two inches, 
and marking at the star on Front (which you will notice on the 
new System), then rounding with the dart rule gradually up 
towards the neck, then turning towards the waist line, marking 
in the figures at those points just as though you were cutting a 
straight bust. See above diagram showing Round Bust, likewise 
Jacket, which you can easily cut with a very little practice. And 
if the figure is inclined to be somewhat corpulent, it will be 'well 
to spring the front line out at bottom of basque, say about 1 or \% 
inches, using the Dart Rule to draft this line also. 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



Cutting Double Breasted Cloaks, Sacques, Etc. 

No. 2 or the following diagram, represents the front of a loose 
fitting, double or single breasted sacque or cloak with under-arm 
dart (or without if you choose), and in cutting this style of garment 
(if light material, and half fitting basque is desired,) we sometimes 
use a half fitting dart, and this dart can easily be marked when 
using our System, as the name " Half Fitting Dart" is stamped on 
it, and it can be made any width you desire; however, if you mark 
through the perforations on each side of this dart, you would 




Diagram No. 2. 



10 INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 

make it about 3 inches wide, and from that you can narrow it 
down to any width desired; but allow me to caution you that when 
using- this dart be careful not to make it too wide, but try to take 
up in it and the under-arm dart just half the taper, whatever that 
may be. If at any time you should wish to cut a cloak, sacque, 
wrap, or any style of basque with very narrow darts, or no darts 
at all, for that matter you can do so by taking out the taper (that 
is to say make the garment fit closely at the waist) by taking- out 
an inch or two at the under-arm seam, and a little could also be 
taken out in front by using the "Hound Bust" and curving in 
quite a good deal at the waist line. 

How to Cut Double Breasted. 

To cut double breasted garments, it will be necessary to lay the 
System in on the goods about 3^ inches at least, so that you will 
have sufficient goods to lap over. Always use the bust measure 
two sizes larger for a cloak or any kind of outside wrap than for a 
dress; for example: if a lady measures 34 inches bust measure, for 
a dress, you should use 36 for a cloak. J would also advise that 
when cutting cloaks of heavy material for stout figures, that you 
mark one perforation in at arm's eye scale, or scale of E; for 
instance: if 34 is the bust measure, mark 32 there instead, as by so 
doing you will save the trouble of trimming it out in the arm's 
eye. In all other respects proceed in the same manner as in 
drafting No. 1, or tight-fitting basque. 

• Different Shape Shoulders. 

I would say in way of explanation of those words found on 
margin of shoulder, on the front, namely: Hollow, Medium and 
Full shoulder, that they are placed there to aid in drafting a 
shoulder suitable for any figure; for instance: if the person for 
whom you are cutting has a very hollow shoulder, place the Front 
when drafting with the point {top of neck) at the dot made, by 
marking through the perforation in scale of B, and if you were 
cutting for any one with a medium shoulder place the System 
with the first small A at this dot; but if you are cutting for some 
one who has a full shoulder, place the System with the second 
small A opposite this dot. With this arrangement, if you will 
study the shape and style of your customers' shoulders a little- 
you will have no trouble in fitting them perfectly. 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



11 



How to Cut the Different Style of Backs. 




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2*2 




Diagram No. 3. 

No. 3, or the above diagram, represents what is known as "Seam 
to the shoulder back," and please notice that we can cut each 
piece separately, that is to say directly on the goods without having 
to cut a pattern first, or in other words you should first cut the back 
piece then the side body, and in this way save a great deal of time 
and trouble. To cut the back piece then first lay the Back of the Sys- 
tem with the outside edge at the top, within an inch or so of the out- 
side edge of the goods (or paper, if cutting a pattern), but at the 
waistline set it in at least 13^ or 2 inches. (Observe diagram.) This 
is for spring in the back, and is sufficient, ordinarily. But if you 
wish an extra amount of goods left at the back for pleats, or for any 



12 INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 

other purpose, you must place the System still farther in, often times 
as much as five or six inches, or even more than that occasionally. 
Now begin and mark through the perforation 34 in scale of J at 
neck, also 34 in scale of K, and 34 in scale between K and L, this 
being as far as you would go when cutting the back piece; now 
mark at 15 for length of back (not 15 on the rule in the margin of 
the System), but instead take your tape line, or Front part of 
System (which ever is the more convenient), and measure down 
from 34 at back of neck towards the waist line 15 inches (as 15 in 
the measure we are using represents the length of back and is 
taken from the 34 at the neck down to the waist line). Now mark 
in the second perforation to the right for width of back piece for 
medium and stout forms, and for very slender figures mark in the 
first perforation, in dotted line. Now take the Back of System and 
draft the lines, being careful to run from dot to dot, which will 
give shape shown in diagram No. 3. 

To Draft Lower Part of Back. 

Take the Dart Rule and place the figure 11 at the dot on the waist 
line (or the 12, if more spring is required.) and throw the lower end 
out within % inch of the outside edge of the goods, or in other words 
give from 1% to 2% inches of spring, according to the form; then 
draft down to the length required, and make this piece at a point 8 
inches down from the waist line just as wide as it is at the top or 
shoulder across from the outside to the line that comes up to the 
center of shoulder (in using 31 bust measure we find the width 
at the top to be %% inches, (therefore, make it that width at the 
bottom. Now place the Dart Bule at 11 or 12 again and draft the 
inside line (or line between back and side body) down to the 
required length, same as outside. This completes the back piece 
proper. 

How to Extend Down Into Polonaise, Etc. 

Should you wish to extend it into a polonaise, wrapper, or 
princess dress, use the Skirt Rule, where you will find the width 
of back gore at bottom just as you did the width of front, on its 
straight edge near the center, and after getting the width you 
can draft'down to any length required. 

How to Cut the Side Body. 

To cut the side "body place the System back again on the goods, 
being careful to get it as near straight with the thread as possible, 
(see diagram next page, which will give you a very good idea how the 
different parts of the System should be placed on the goods, espec- 
ially when cutting stripes or plaids) then begin and mark through 
the perforation 34 between the scales of K and L (just where you 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



13 




left oft' when marking back piece), then 34 short shoulder or scale 
of L, then in scale of for lower point of arm's eye, then follow 
under 31 in scale of P to the junction of 34 and 8, or whatever the 
length of waist may be. If it be a stout figure you are cutting for 
(say 40 inch bust measure) do not mark under 40, but 36 or 38 instead, 
and then add % or % of an inch to the front, as stout people usually 
prefer to have the back cut as narrow as possible, and if you make 
the back narrower the front must be made that much wider in order 
to get a perfect fit. Now mark in the perforation at the waist 
line, at which you left off when marking the back piece the second 
or third, or first (which is the dotted line), if for a slender form 
and the dotting is finished. Then mark off the lines just as you 
did in cutting the back piece. 



14 



INSTRUCTIONS IN' DRESS CUTTING. 




Diagram No. 4. 
To Draft the Lower Part of Back. 

In drafting the line between the back and side body down to 
form the lower part of basqne, give it % of an inch of spring (see 
diagram) and make the side body at a point eight inches down just 
twice as wide as at the waist line; for example: if it be iy % inches 
wide at that point make it 5 inches wide at the bottom, and 
from 143^ to 17 inches wide at the bottom of polonaise, wrapper, 
or princess dress. You will likewise rind width of this gore 
marked on straight edge of Skirt Rule. 

How to Gut Other Styles of Back. 
The foregoing, or diagram No. 4, shows what is called " Seam to 
the arm's eye back," which is worn now nearly altogether in pre- 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 15 

ferance to all other styles, and this is cut just as No. 3, only 
that instead of stopping between the scales of K and L when 
cutting the back piece, we go on down to the scale of N, aDd mark 
in the upper row when cutting the back piece, but when com- 
mencing to cut the side body mark in the lower row (not where 
you left off, but in the row of perforations just beneath the one 
you marked in when cutting the back piece), as by doing st) you 
will have taken out all the fullness that accrues at this point, a fault 
existing in nearly all systems of cutting, but which we have entirely 
remedied in our New Perfection Tailor System. Now mark the 
outside perforation at 15, then second or third, or first, as the form 
you are cutting for may require. When drafting the curved line 
from scale of N down to 15, between the back piece and side body, 
use the Side Form, placing the star at the upper dot, and be careful 
to give the side body the same curve when you draft that piece, as 
you did when drafting the back piece or they won't go together 
nicely. In drafting the side body mark perforations 34 in lower 
scale of N (for reasons already given) and O, then follow under 34 
opposite of 8, just as you did before. Give it the same amount of 
spring at bottom of basque, and finish it in every way as you did 
No. 3, or "Seam to the shoulder back." 



For Cutting the Different Style of Sleeves. 

In cutting sleeves we use but three measures, namely: Length 
of arm in front, size of arm at arm's eye, and size of cuff or wrist; 
and the exact length of arm is best obtained by placing the tape 
at the arm's eye seam (a little underneath the arm), then measuring 
down towards the wrist to the proper length. If you wish a long 
sleeve you should measure down as far as the base of the thumb; 
but if a medium sleeve is required, stop at a point within two or 
three inches of the hand, and if you wish an " Elbow Sleeve " get the 
length from the arm's eye to a point just below the elbow. In cut- 
ting "Elbow Sleeves " perhaps you had better get the entire length 
of the arm first, then measure from the hand up and. cut off what- 
ever you find necessary in order to make it the proper length, in 
this way you keep the shape better, at the same time get the exact 
size all along the arm. 

Common or " Coat Sleeve." 

Now, having given you a pretty good idea of how to measure 
the arm, we will cut what is known as the "Common" or "Coat 
Sleeve," (which the following, or diagram No. 5, represents), and 



16 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 




Diagram No. 5. 



is really the basis upon which all kinds of sleeve cutting rests, there- 
fore, if you learn to cut this perfectly you will have no trouble with 
any other style of sleeve. Then, for example: suppose you wished 
to cut a sleeve for a lady having a 17-inch length of arm, 15-inch 
size of arm at arm's eye and 9-inch size of cuff or wrist (size used 
in diagram), you would first mark at 17 on front side of Sleeve 
Rule, above and below, and then draw the front line from 
one dot made thus to the other, then follow on the 17 line 
towards the left until you come to the junction of 17 and 
15, which figure you will find in row of figures running 
crosswise of Sleeve Rule near top (size of arm at arm's eye) 
and mark through that perforation. This marks out the upper 
half; but when marking the under half dot in 10 or 23^ inches 
in to the right from the 15, or in other words make the under 
part of the common or coat sleeve 2% inches smaller at the 
top than the upper part and \% inches smaller at the wrist, 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



17 



unless it be when cutting for children or very large persons, 
when you make the difference less or greater, which ever is 
necessary. See instructions for this on New Sleeve Rule. 
However, if you wish to make the under part quite narrow, and 
the upper quite wide, as is the case in other diagrams that follow, 
you can draft them just as easily that way, and all that is neces- 
sary to do is to add to the upper just as much as you take from the 
under part. After marking through 10, at the top of the sleeve 
follow under 9 at the bottom of the Sleeve Rule (size of cuff) to the 
junction of 17 (length of arm), and mark in 6 for the under part, 
for that part marked in 6, and the upper part marked in 9, 
makes a difference of 1^ inches between the two parts at the 
wrist, or you can add still more to the upper and take more from 
the under part, as you will notice when cutting other styles of 
sleeves, and this, by the way, is the manner in which the "French, 
or Gathered Sleeve," is cut. 



JFoe, Curving the Top of Sleeves. 

The curve at top of Sleeve Rule is just right for short shoulder; 
but when cutting common or " Coat Sleeve " for very long shoulders 
take off 1 inch or so from the curve, but add at least 1 inch or more 
when cutting if much fullness or puffing at the top is desired. 
(See and study carefully the accompanying- diagrams.) And please 
bear in mind that though, by the above diagram, a certain style of 
coat sleeve is shown, yet you can change it in any way you choose. 

Diagram No. 6, or the following, represents another style of coat 
sleeve, very much the same as No. 5, with this exception, that the 
outside line of the under part is drafted about 1 inch longer than 
the outside line of the common coat sleeve; and by the way, this 
style of sleeve is becoming quite popular, as by cutting it in 
this way the seam is thrown well under the arm, and at the same 
time prevents any fullness, therefore doing away with the necessity 
of gathering at the elbow, and I think that 1 inch extra length is 
sufficient for all ordinary sizes. But when cutting for very 
large persons you may find it necessary to add a little more 
than 1 inch, but a little practice and observation will very soon 
make you competent to cut any size. 

Now in drafting this style of sleeve you should proceed in the 
same manner as you did when drafting No. 5, that is, take the 
three measures of the arm, namely: Length of arm in front, size 
of arm at arm's eye, and be careful when taking this measure to 
keep your tape right on the seam (the arm-hole seam), as by meas- 
uring the arm above or below it does not give you the proper size 
of the arm, and as the sleeve is set in the arm-hole, and not above 
or below, it is very essential that you take this measure as above 



18 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 




Diagram No. 6. 
described. Now, after getting those two measures properly, then 
get size of wrist or cuff, and we have found the easiest and most 
accurate way to get this measure is to make a loop of your tape 
line, and then have the person- you are cutting for put her hand 
through this loop several times, if necessary, or at least until you 
have obtained the exact size, which, of course, will depend some- 
what upon the style of sleeve, for if your customer wants a tight 
fitting sleeve take the measure quite tight, but if you desire to 
cut a looser fitting sleeve then take a looser wrist measure; then 
proceed, marking at front side of Sleeve Rule at top and bottom 
opposite 17, then follow the 17 line until you come to the junction 
of 15 size of arm, and mark through this perforation when 
cutting the outer or upper part of the sleeve, but when cutting the 
under part mark through 10 on the 17 line, now follow under 9 at 
the bottom of the Sleeve Rule (under cuff, or wrist measure 
figures,) and mark through the perforation at the junction of this 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



19 



figure and 17 (the length of arm), then mark under 6 for under 
part, but opposite 19, length of arm, as this is necessary in order 
to give this extra length to the under part to which we have 
already alluded, and which you will notice on our No. 6 diagram; 
then draft out the lines, cutting first the upper then the under 
part, allowing whatever width of seam you wish at the sides, but 
cut right on the line at top and bottom. 

The Lines Had Best be Traced Out. 
And, by the way, a tracing wheel is a very nice thing to have for 
all kinds of cutting, as with it a person can mark right through 
the goods, making it possible to sew on the line without having to 
go to the trouble of marking it twice. We like the "Double 
Tracer" very much, as it marks the line on which you cut (giving 
exact width of seam), likewise the sewing line. 




Diagram No. 7. 

New Style of Sleeve. 
Diagram No. 7 represents an entirely new sleeve, and one that is 
likely to become quite a favorite, as it is said to be very easy, and 



20 INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 

when properly cut sets nicely. In catting this sleeve the same 
measures are taken as for cutting- the preceding styles. 

First, then begin by marking opposite of 17 on Front of Sleeve 
Rule at top and bottom (as 17 is the length of arm), then follow the 
17 line first to 15 (notice dotted line representing coat sleeve), but 
don't mark through that perforation, but instead, follow on 
towards the back part of Sleeve Rule until you come to the perfor- 
ation at 19, then mark through that, which will give you the size 
of this style of sleeve at the top; now follow under 9, size of wrist, 
until you come to 17, length of arm, and mark through that 
perforation, then go over to the front, and add 1 inch at the lower 
right hand corner (notice diagram and you will see the figure 1 
between the heavy and the dotted lines), this gives you one inch 
more of width to the upper part at the wrist, and it throws the 
seam that much further under the arm, which is one of the many 
fine points of this sleeve. 

How to Cut Under Part. 

In cutting the under part of this sleeve you should commence 
in the same way, that is, mark opposite of 17, length of arm, at 
top and bottom of Sleeve Rule, then to mark the proper width of 
the under part at the top, follow the 17 line to 7 and mark 
through that perforation; this makes a difference of 6 inches 
between the width of under and upper parts at the top and 2>% 
inches at the bottom. 

This finishes the dotting, and now we are ready to draft the 
lines, and when you draft the back lines of both upper and 
under parts you should place the Sleeve Rule on just as though 
you were going to draft a coat sleeve, that is, place it at 15 (the 
point of dotted lines) and let it remain there until you draft from 
the elbow down to the lower dot, then throw it out at the top to 
the 19, and draft from the elbow up to that dot; you must draft it 
in this way in order to prevent too much fullness at the elbow. 
Now in drafting the under part place the Sleeve Rule just as 
though you were going to draft from 10 (represented by the dotted 
lines), and draft from the elbow down, then hold the Rule right at 
that point, and throw the top in to the dot made by marking 
through 7, this will give fullness enough at the elbow, so there will 
be no danger of the sleeve drawing across the arm at that point, 
then finish this line by drafting from the elbow up to the dot 
made by marking through 7. 

How to Draft Top of Sleeve. 

In drafting the top of sleeve be careful to get the most curve 

just about in the center of the sleeve, and in order to do this 

we have on our i^ew Sleeve Rule placed a scale of figures, 

running from 20 to 12 (you will find these figures at upper left 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



21 



hand margin of Sleeve), so when drafting a 15 inch sleeve yon 
should place the Sleeve Rule on the goods with the 15 in this scale 
opposite the dot; if for 16. place the 16 opposite, and so on through 
all sizes. To shape the top of the under part reverse the Sleeve 
Rule and place the star in margin of Rule at the dot made when 
marking at IT in front, and draft to the dot made by marking 
through perforation on that line; but in drafting the upper part 
you should place the Rule with 19 in this scale at the dot instead 
of 15, as we have made the width that much greater. 




Diagram No. 8. 

The preceding, or diagram Xo. 8, shows the ' 4 French sleeve," or 
perhaps more commonly known as the "gathered sleeve," but 
other sleeves will gather somewhat when there is very much 
difference between their upper and under parts, unless cut in the 
way we have explained in diagram Xo. 6. However, I find that 
most sleeves require a little fullness at the elbow in order to make 
them set nicely: but this does not necessitate gathers, for if the 



22 INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 

upper part of the Coat Sleeve is held a little full when sewing up 
the outside seam it will give this extra fullness without any 
gathers; but when your customers want a regular French, or 
gathered sleeve, the above, or diagram No. 8, is the proper style. 
Rule For Cutting French Sleeve. 

To cut this sleeve (if you have the same measures) first mark at 
17, length of arm, opposite 17, both at top and bottom of Sleeve 
Rule, then follow that line until you come to the junction of 17 and 
15, size of arm at arm's eye, and mark through that perforation, 
then from that dot measure 1 inch down, (but when cutting for 
17 or 18 inch size of arm, measure at least l}{ inches down), then 
3 inches to the left. This gives the entire width of the upper 
part at the top, then follow under 9, size of wrist, to a point oppo- 
site of 17, and mark through that perforation and you have 
finished dotting for the upper part, unless you wish to add to the 
width of this part at the wrist; if you should, just add, say 1% 
inches, then mark the under part l 1 ^ inches narrower, this, of 
course, makes the sleeve just the same width, but changes the 
shape somewhat, and you will soon learn by a little practice which 
you prefer. 

To Shape Top of French Sleeve. 

In shaping the top of this sleeve you will find it necessary to 
hold the Sleeve Rule in two different positions: First, get the 
upper part of curve by holding the Sleeve in the same position as 
when cutting No. 7, then reverse it and draft from a point opposite 
the dot made when marking through 15 at the top of the dotted 
line to the outside dot made when measuring out the 3 inches, in 
fact right at that figure, (See diagram and study it carefully.) 
When drafting the outside lines of both under and upper parts, 
proceed as instructed in the sleeve just preceding this one. 

How the Under Part of French Sleeve is Drafted. 

To draft the under part mark 17 at top and bottom again, on 
front of Sleeve Rule, then follow on the 17 line until you come to 
10 (top of dotted line), but instead of marking through that per- 
foration pass from there to the right till you come to 7, (the 
engraver made a mistake in the diagram, he has it 6, but it 
should be 7.) This will give you the width of this part at the top, 
now follow under 6 wrist measure figures until you come opposite 
of 17 (which is the length of arm), and mark through that perfor- 
ation for the width of the wrist; however, if you wish the other 
style, which we spoke of, take off \% inches, but be careful that 
you have added that much to the upper part, else your sleeve will 
be altogether too small. Reverse the Sleeve Rule just the same as 
before, when drafting the top of under part. 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



23 



Changes Made in New Sleeve Kule. 

Our New Sleeve Kule, issue of 1890, has been changed so that it 
cuts more accurately (especially for children) than any of our 
previous issues. You will notice that from 12 length of arm the 
scale has been dropped at the center of Sleeve, so that we can now 
cut for children just as perfectly as for ladies. We consider this 
a decided improvement, and hope our customers will be pleased 
with it. You will find the necessary instruction regarding changes 
on the Sleeve Kule. 

How to Cut Low Neck Dresses or Corset Covers. 
The two following diagrams will be all that is necessary to 




instruct you in cutting low neck dresses or corset covers, and the 
only difference iu cutting either of these from cutting plain 



24 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



basque, after diagram Xo. 1, is that it will be necessary to drop 
down in the scale of A in the Front when cutting the front, and J 
in the Back when cutting that part, from four to 'six sizes, then 
curve them as desired and run upper end of line to about the 
center of shoulder. 








INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



Cutting Different Style of Skirts. 




3< IN, 



Full width of Back 
Breadth for "22 inch 
waist measure. 



36JIS, 



Diagram No. 9. 

The above diagram No. 9 shows how skirts can be cut in a very 
rapid, as well as accurate manner, for which we need but two 
measures and th£ Perfection Tailor Skirt Rule. Said measures 
are size of waist and length of skirt; for example: suppose we 
have a 22 inch waist measure and 38 inch length of skirt. To cut 
the front gore you should fold the goods about 11 or 12 inches 
wide, then place the Skirt Rule across the top, with the narrow 
end to the right and with figure 22 on outside edge of goods, then 
mark off the dart which you will find marked on the Rule 
which is 1 inch wide and about 5 inches long. For this size 
make this gore about 5 inches wide at the top, and for every two 
inches in size around the waist add y 2 inch to its width; also move 
the Skirt Rule to the right y 2 an inch, so as to keep this Dart 
in the center of {he gore. Now measure 38 inches down the 
front and make this gore 11 inches wide at the bottom (goods being 
double), which would make the front gore 22 inches wide at this 
point, or if desired, still wider, according to form, style, or taste. 
This gives the width of front gore top and bottom. Then draw a 
line from this point to the top on the inside, curving it slightly 
near the top, and you have it finished, to be changed as fashion 
may dictate; but the Skirt Rule will always be found equal to the 
task. 



20 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



How to Draft Side. Gore for Plain Skirt. 

The side gore is drafted in the same manner, only use the goods 
single and make the width at bottom of the skirt from 14 to 17 
inches wide and about 6 inches wide at top for 22 inch waist 
measure. (See diagram.) The top of this gore is drafted in about 
the same manner as the front, that is to say, lay the Skirt Rule 
crosswise of the goods, mark off 6 inches and then mark the Dart 
which you used in marking front gore in the center at top, then 
run the lines curving them a little at the top. 

How to Cut Back Breadth of Skirt. 

The back breadth is cut plain and straight about 36 inches wide, 
sometimes more for very full skirts. (See diagram No. 9.) 

For Cutting Skirts With Trains. 

The following diagram illustrates very clearly and plainly the 
manner in which a "Train Skirt" may be cut and the plan and 
instruction necessary you will please observe is identically the 
same as for cutting plain skirt, only that there is an extra amount 
of goods to be used in train, the climentions of which is given on 
accompanying diagram, and it will be best for you to study each 
of those diagrams carefully. 




Or thus 



Skirt cutting by any kind of measurement is comparatively a 
new thing, and but few have had any experience. But do not get 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



-27 



discouraged, for in a very short time you will be able to cut skirts 
with just as great a degree of accuracy as any other part of the 
garment. 

We also use the Skirt Rule for cutting any width of bias or any 
style of fancy trimming. To cut bias trimming it is necessary to 
first fold the goods about \y 2 inches wide, then lay the Skirt Rule 
lengthwise of the folded goods and mark through the perforations 
representing the width of bias piece required, then cut through 
from dot to dot. In cutting collars with the Skirt Rule take two 
measures, namely: size of neck and width of collar, and proceed 
as instructed on Skirt Rule. Reverse the Rule when wishing to 
cut any of the fancy trimmings and mark through the perforations 
representing the different styles. 



Cutting Children's Dresses, Aprons, Etc, 





Diagram No. 10. 



28 INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 

The above, or diagram No. 10, shows a very common yet popular 
style of child's dress; and please observe that we can cut a child's 
dress just as easily and accurately with our System as a lady's, 
and this is a very nice feature of the Perfection and one that 
commends itself to the mother as well as the dressmaker. 

To cut this style of a child's dress, first fold the goods double, 
then lay the Front part of the System with the perforations on the 
fold and mark through the 22 (or chest measure) just the same as 
you did when cutting for ladies. The only difference being this, 
that we use but two measures in cutting for children, namely: 
chest measure, and length of waist. As there is no taper it is never 
necessary to take a waist measure. Now after marking through 
22 in the different scales down to the length of waist, say 5 inches, 
we mark the front in 5, then run off the outlines, then from 5 in 
front measure 2 inches in, and run from that point to the bottom 
of dress, with the Gabrielle seam, measuring 4 inches from front 
line to the right at the bottom for position of this seam, then 
extend said seam to the center of shoulder and you have the front 
completed. 

For Cutting Back of Child's Dress. 

To cut the back, fold the hem or lap, and lay the back part of 
the System with the outside edge even with the outside edge of 
goods, or paper if cutting a pattern, and dot through the perfora- 
tion 22 in the different scales uutil you come to the waist line, when 
you should mark in 32, or in other words, add 10 sizes; that is, if 
the chest measure of a child is 22 mark in 32 at waist line when 
cutting the back; if 24, mark in 34, and so on. Now mark at 5 
again on center of back seam, then measure in 1% inches at waist 
line and 3 inches at bottom of dress. Run the Gabrielle seam to 
the center of the shoulder, just as you did in front, and the back 
for this style of dress or apron is finished. 

For Cutting "Gabrielle" and "Kilt Skirts" for Children 

No. 11, or the following diagram, shows another style of child's 
dress which can be cut single or double breasted, and opened in 
front or back, according to taste. The little under-arm dart which 
we here represent, is quite the thing now-a-days, being fully as 
popular as the " Gabrielle." A kilt skirt, as shown in the diagram, 
especially for little boys, is also quite a favorite. The under-arm 
dart (when cutting for children) I should make about 1 inch wide 
on waist line and about 2 inches from side seam; extend it up to 
about the center of arm's eye and about 5 inches below the waist 
line. The general instructions for the cutting of this dress is the 
same as in diagram No. 10. In fact, if any lady will take a lesson 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 



29 




22 22 





Diagram No. 1 1 



or two from a competent teacher on our System, then go to work 
and practice and study it thoroughly, just as though she were 
learning music or some fancy work, and keep herself in practice 
by cutting a garment now and then, she can cut anything (and we 
will guarantee them to fit perfectly) from a little child's apron to a 
lady's full dress suit, and without any guess work whatever. 

Changes and Improvements Made. 



lYe are very glad to inform our many customers and the public 
in general, that on June 10, 1886, then again on June 1, 1887, then 
on Septembef 1, 1888, and last on January 1, 1890, we made several 
important improvements in our then very excellent System, 
among which we will first mention, making it larger. Heretofore 
it has only cut up to 46 inches bust measure, but now it cuts up to 



30 INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 

48 inches, and should you at any time wish to cut still larger you 
can do so by measuring out in the direction in which the different 
scales extend, allowing about % of an inch for every two sizes; 
for example: if you wished to cut for a persq.ii having a 50 inch 
bust measure, you would mark it just % of an inch larger than the 
System, or if you were cutting for a lady with a 52 inch bust 
measure, you would cut just 1% inches larger than the System, 
and so on up to any size required. 

We have also improved the shape in many respects, as you will 
notice when you come to cut with it. The arm's eye, you will 
notice, is much better shape, also the shoulder, in fact it is changed 
in many ways, and all for the better; and those improvements 
have been so made and arranged that any one who has ever learned 
our System can use our latest issue just as readily as they could 
the one they learned on, and we are very confident that every one 
of those improvements will be appreciated by all who may have an 
opportunity of examining it, as these changes and improvements 
make the Perfection Tailor System of Dress Cutting the very 
latest as well as the most perfect arrangement for cutting ladies' 
and children's dresses, cloaks, aprons, etc., in existance. 

Extra Parts Furnished. 

Any one wishing extra pieces or parts of the System can get 
them of us, as we always keep in stock extra Fronts, Backs 
Sleeves, Skirt Eules, Dart Rules, etc. 

The retail price of our Complete System, with full oral instruc- 
tions, you will find printed on the front also on the back of the, 
cover of this book, and the price remains the same, notwithstand- 
ing the fact that we have been to quite a good deal of expense in 
the way of improving the System from time to time, and adding 
to the size of our instruction book (formerly 16 pages), now 32 
pages, one of which is always furnished gratis with each System, 
in fact it is part of it, therefore accompanies it in every instance. 

Instruction Book Simplified. 

We have tried very hard in getting out this, our latest Instruc- 
tion Book, to print only instructions for using our System, as we 
are very anxious that all who purchase it shall learn all about 
using it. For it is of but little or no value unless it is thoroughly 
understood, therefore, please do not take a lesson or two and then 
lay it aside for several months, but instead use it right along every 
day in your work- shop, if you are a dress maker, or if you have 
learned it only for your own use it will be well for you to use 
it every day in cutting patterns, etc., for the practice if nothing 
more, for that is just as necessary in learning the art of dress cut- 



INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 31 



ting perfectly as it is in learning music or painting. And although 
the System is very simple and can be learned by any one of average 
intelligence in a very little time, yet it is always best to practice 
more or less on it (and the more the better) until you have become 
so thoroughly familiar with every part of it that there could be no 
such thing as forgetting it. 

There Should be One in Every Household. 

I do not know but we look at this matter from a selfish stand- 
point, but it does seem to us as though every lady, young or old, 
rich or poor, should, in justice to themselves, and if dress makers, 
their customers, (as the art of cutting dresses by measurement is 
quite an accomplishment,) be the owner of one of them, as with it 
nearly every garment worn by either women or children can be cut 
and a perfect fit obtained in less than half the time it takes to 
merely block them out with many other systems, or any of the 
so-called self-fitting patterns now in use. 

Number of this Edition. 

This is the fifth edition of our Instruction Book, and in present- 
ing it to our numerous customers and friends, in its present form, 
we are confident that it will meet with the approval of all who are 
interested in the art of dress cutting, and will prove a source of 
great information to all wishing to learn our New Perfection 
Tailor System. 

A Few Words More About Front Shoulder. 

Before bringing this book to a close we would again call your 
attention to the importance of stretching the front shoulder thor- 
oughly w T hen sewing up the shoulder seam, and it should be 
stretched so that there will be at least % inch to trim off at 
shoulder point, as it makes the shoulder set smooth and nice 
and prevents drawing or wrinkling. 

That Under- Arm Dart Again. 

We likewise deem it best to speak about the under-arm dart 
again, as we fear but few understand just how to draft it right, 
especially when cutting for stout forms, as it is so hard to get 
sufficient spring below the waist line. We would, therefore, 
strongly recommend the new style which we have given you in 
this book, that is of cutting the front in two parts and giving the 
necessary spring to each side, as by cutting it in this way you can 
give it all the spring you wish. • I would also advise that you give 



32 INSTRUCTIONS IN DRESS CUTTING. 

this dart a little slant towards the side seam, in other words 
instead of drafting it straight down slant it a little to the right, 
and to do this it will be best to make the center of it at least % 
inch nearer to the side seam than to the back dart. 

Measure Book. 

The Measure Book to which we call your attention as having 
lately been added for the benefit of our customers, contains 
twenty-four pages, with space for ten ladies' names and their 
respective measurements upon each page, and they are so ruled 
that each person's name and measure is kept separate. The book 
is printed in nice, clear type, on good, white paper, and bound in 
pamphlet form. We have decided to furnish these books to our 
customers at just about their cost price, which is $1.00 per dozen, 
or 50c. per half dozen. Sample sent by mail, post-paid, for 15c. 

We have likewise lately added, for the benefit of our German 
and French customers, a German and French Instruction Book, 
which we propose furnishing as we do the English books, free of 
charge, with the System. Extra Instruction Books will be fur- 
nished at 25c. each to any one wishing them. When ordering 
please state w r hich kind of book you prefer. 

Address all orders and communications to 

W. R. .WILLIAMS, 
Proprietor and Manufacturer, 
1535 Massachusetts St. Lawrence. Kansas. 



„™ RflRY 0F CONGRESS 

013 964 923 



Price List of Tracing Wheels, Tape 'Measures, El 



We carry quite a full 
Tracing Wheels, etc. 



at of Tape Measures, 



M<fj 



The above cut represents our Dress Maker's Favorite Tracing 
Wheel, which we furnish at 30 cents each, $2.25 per dozen, $1.25 
per hall dozen. We also have a very nice Double Tracing Wheel, 
which is also quite a favorite with Dress Makers. Price 40 cents 
each, $3.25 per dozen, $1.75 per half dozen. 

We also have a wheel called the " Family Tracing Wheel," a little 
lighter and smaller, but a very good wheel, which we can furnish 
at 25 cents each, $1.75 per dozen, $1.00 per half dozen. 

Our assortment of Tape Lines consists of several different kinds, 
among which we will mention our GO inch line, which we can 
furnish at 5 cents, 50 cents per dozen, 30 cents per half dozen. We 
also have the genuine Tailor's stitched satteen lines, the best m 
use; price 30 cents each, $3.25 per dozen, $1.75 per half dozen. 

All the above goods are very salable, and all i .aching our 

System should try and carry a small stock of them at least* for the 
accommodation of their customers. 

N. B.~ Agents and all others teaching our System will please 
bear in mind that the retail price of the complete System, with 



full oral instructions for 






00, which we guarantee to be 



as low as any first-class system can be bought for. 

Will send sample of any of the above goods by mail, post-paid, 
upon receipt of price; but when orderin in larger quantities than 
one, you will please enclose enough extra to pay postage, otherwise 
we shall be compelled to Send by express. 
Address all orders and communications to 

W. R. WILLIAMS, 

1535 Massachusetts St., 

Lawrence, Kansas. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 964 923 • 



Hollinger Corp. 
pH8.5 



